
A Japanese onsen is a great laboratory for dealing with vulnerability, especially if you’re an American woman. Most Americans, despite what reality TV portrays, do not walk around half-naked. A nipple slip, a la Janet Jackson at the Super Bowl, is cause for headlines that don’t go away for months. So, an onsen experience can border on slightly uncomfortable, especially for those who come from more prudish countries. Onsens are bathhouses that are separated by sex. You bathe in the nude, aside from a tiny washcloth you carry around for scrubbing, not covering. I had done the whole being naked in an onsen thing during my first trip to Japan, and while it veered on uncomfortable, I always appreciate time alone relaxing in a hot bath. But there is always a bit of an adjustment appearing naked in public, even if it is in front of a room full of Japanese grandmothers (and I know I’ll have the most desirable body based on age alone). So the second time around, as I followed my Japanese host mom into the women’s dressing room, I tried to find a corner to myself to undress and put away my clothes. To prepare. As I was securing the locker door, I felt a tap on my shoulder. My heart pounded, not knowing anyone was there. I quickly turned around and found a small crowd of women gathered around me. Staring at me naked. My host mom was at the front of the group, beaming. She proudly pointed at me - “American!” she cheered in her accented English. So there I was on display.
So here I am in Kabul, six years later, naked in a very different way.
I deliberately decided to change nearly everything about my life by moving to Kabul. Accepting this opportunity subsequently meant the end of a five-year relationship. It meant not being able to see my friends every weekend and declining wedding and baby shower invites for people I care about most over the course of the next year. It meant not knowing when I’ll see my family next, but trusting that everything would somehow sort itself out. I had committed myself to starting a new life in a country I knew virtually nothing about. I felt like a stranger to myself.
The day before I left for Afghanistan, I decided my light blonde hair had strayed too far from my natural dirty blonde. I booked an appointment with my stylist, and asked her to please take me back to my roots. But when the dye washed out and my hair was blown dry, my locks looked more Kate Middleton than…well, I can’t think of any celebrity who has my naturally mousy hair color by choice. Morphing from blonde to brunette in an hour was completely overwhelming. Every time I saw myself in a mirror, I felt like a stranger was looking back at me. I was so overwhelmed that I cried. More than once.
But this type of a sweeping, dramatic change is good for me. In fact, I think it’s what I do best. I’m not very adept at making small changes. Vows to take baby steps just aren’t my style, although I admire the Kaizen, continuous improvement approach. With me, it’s all or nothing. I don’t say I’m going to run a half-marathon; I go all out and train for the full 26.2 long haul. I don’t plan my first solo trip to an English-speaking country; I choose to go to Tokyo for a month. When I do things, I do them in a big way. Small changes need not apply.
Consequently, when you have the tendency to leap into changes that alter your life completely, as I do, you have to be comfortable with being a beginner, and being a beginner means being vulnerable. And learning things very, very slowly. Painfully at times. It means putting yourself on display and making mistakes while everyone around you is already painfully aware that you’re wrong before you begin. In the last two weeks I’ve learned how to tie a headscarf, what headscarfs are appropriate in different contexts, that the bathroom door does indeed lock, and how to say hello, thank you and stove in Dari. I’ve learned to navigate around my own office and through the shared files at work, in addition to getting my bags and making my way to carpark 2 (or was it 3?) at the Kabul Airport. I’ve figured out how to order groceries and get my laundry washed. I’ve memorized my new phone number and made my way to the German clinic (with the help of a friend). I’ve deciphered the various acronyms that are so popular with governments and NGO’s: GoIRA, RFA, MCN, MoEW, MoM (wtf). The one thing I know is there is still so much I don’t know. I’m a beginner in every sense of the word. But I’m OK with not knowing and appearing a bit awkward as I gain solid footing on new territory. Even though I wish I could learn and change things in one drastic move or lesson, I’m going to have to embrace baby steps.
As I’ve learned from my brunette locks and my time in a Japanese onsen, I can brace myself for being revealed and facing my insecurities. I can overcome feeling vulnerable and not recognizing myself. And that’s exactly how things start to change. When I see myself in the mirror and think, “Hey, I actually like Kate Middleton’s hair color,” I know I’m making progress.